Cafes
Ruta de la Seda
Look for a small, orange stucco building, without even a sign over the door, with the only indication that it's a cafe in this residential neighborhood are the tables and chairs out on the sidewalk. True to its hippie, progressive environment, this tiny cafe serves organic pastries and coffee, and has some Indian food on the menu samosas, mango lassi. Try the green tea cake with ice cream, also made of green tea.
Café de la Selva
A perennial student hangout, also serving baguettes and cakes.
El Jarocho
This is a very old, family-owned coffee roaster's shop, and there are now at least three locations in Coyoacán. They have really good and cheap coffee, bad and cheap tortas sandwiches in French bread, and reasonably standard American-style donuts. There are benches on the sidewalk just outside the Jarocho shops where you can sit to drink your coffee, or you can do like everyone else in Coyoacán and just stroll around the park with your Jarocho foam cup in your hand. On weekends, expect to wait in line to order your coffee. A long wait in line for coffee, a bag of fresh churros, and a conversation in Cuyoacán's plaza is an quintessential Mexico City date.
Bizarro
A comfortable goth hangout. There is a really good bakery next door.
Grab-a-bite places
TaquerÃa Aguayo 1
Just off of the Plaza Hidalgo, this little hole in the wall has some of the best traditional food in Mexico City. Their flautas are especially delicious, both the cheese "queso" and steak "barbacoa" variety. A tight squeeze they don't seat very many, but well worth it, and very clean. An order of flautas brings 4 is $28 $7 apiece--best deal anywhere for something this good; quesadillas and tostadas are $7 each, and tacos $10; they also offer tortas and other traditional dishes. Very fast, efficient service. Located on Aguayo, north of the Plaza Hidalgo. If you are in the JardÃn Hidalgo, with your back to the garden/kiosk and facing the colonial Casa Municipal, head left in front of the Casa Municipal and make a right on Aguayo round the corner where the Banamex is. Stay on the right sidewalk; the taquerÃa will be past the Restaurant El Tizoncito and RosticerÃa Molinos, and across the street from a BANORTE. A red awning hangs in front; the name is found only on the menu board inside.
Las Nieves de Coyoacán
One of the best sorbets in the city. Try the ones made from exotic fruits: guanábana, zapote, maracuya, tuna cactus fruit. The coconut-flavored paletas popsicles are also a treat.
Churreria de Coyoacán
Churros are not too popular in Mexico City, but there are a number of places in Coyoacán including street stands that have them. The Churreria is a good place with excellent churros and you can fill it with a number of ingredients, like chocolate, fresa strawberry, durazno peach, lechera milk, zarzamora blackberry and more.
El Chupacabras
These are some of the most famous street tacos in Mexico City. Their speciality is the chupacabra taco, a combination of pork, beef and a 'secret ingredient'.
Nieves el Tepozteco
A few steps away from Las nieves de Coyoacán, features excellent flavors such as Beso de Angel angel kiss, Mil Floes thousand flowers and spicy sorbets!
Street food
The main plaza, at different times of the year, might have street food vendors that sell extremely good flautas long, deep fried tacos, as well as buñuelos deep fried sugar-coated bread, esquites, and elotes corn with chile, mayonase, lime, and cheese.
Restaurants
El Jardin del Pulpo
The "Octopus's Garden" is a casual marisqueria, or seafood place, featuring ceviche, seafood paella, whole roast fish, and even fish and chips. It's located catty-corner from La Casa Azul. Dining is cafeteria-style at long tables under an awning. If you want fresh juices, agua frescas, or ice cream, those are available from two shops next door.
Los Danzantes
Somewhat pricey modern international cuisine with twists on traditional Mexican dishes. They also bottle and sell their own brand of mezcál. Try the seafood-chilpotle chili soup, the goatcheese-filled chicken breast with chilpotle chili sauce, and, if you can afford the $200 price tag, the escamoles ant eggs sol azteca as a starter small, but can be shared between two people.
El Morral
Very good Mexican food. Don't miss the chiles en nogada, large chiles stuffed with ground beef, raisins, and nuts, and covered with a nut cream sauce. Their hand-made tortillas are fantastic. Service can be a bit slow though.
La Guadalupana
Very good Mexican food. Good drinking with the locals. Don't miss the "Mole," "Michele's favorite" or carne tartara. Their hand-made tortillas are fantastic. Service is good, make friends with the Meseros; they are cool.
Taro
Probably the best Japanese food in Mexico City, owned by Japanese. Many Japanese people come here for lunch and dinner, so they attest to the authenticity of the meals --- you won't find maki rolls with cream cheese here. Don't miss their spicy octopus entrée and the ice-cream tempura for dessert.